Thursday 7 September 2017

Petit four dress

Yes, that's what it looks like, all pink :D I once bought a justaucorps from a theatre sale and at last found matching pink fabric for a skirt. After adjusting the justaucorps to my measurements, I started with the skirt, to be worn over my smallest set of paniers.


The justaucorps was too wide around the waist (which could be helped easily by taking in the side and back seams) while the sleeves were too short - which took a bit more effort. I had to detach the cuffs as well as the lace cuffs which I sewed to the very edge of the sleeve, then came the pink cuff that was not, as before, sewn edge to edge but three centimetres further down to give additional length.


The skirt is two fabric widths, closing at one of the side seams, with pocket slits. Measuring the seamline is tedious when you have a curved hem to be worn over paniers. I usually put the skirt on, mark floor length at the front and on one side, and copy it to the other sides, cropping a little for the front and adding a little for the back side. Much to my satisfaction I found an ample amount of matching satin ribbon in my collection but, not content with three rows of ribbon around the hem, I decided to try some simple self-fabric-trimming. And after using the very last bit for the waistband I can proudly say that I used up every inch of this fabric!
From the cutoff I cut 2 centimetre wide strips, using pinking scissors to get the typical pinked edge, which I sewed together and ruffled slightly (not too much or it will curl up). These, alternating with the satin ribbon, decorate the hem.


While rummaging through my collection of trims and ribbons I also found a short piece of a matching one that I decided to turn into a neck ruff / choker. Actually it's a length of gift ribbon, 100% polyester and the centre is some kind of translucent plastic, but this part is covered by a row of lace anyway and won't be seen. I box-pleated almost the whole length, the rest was folded into a bow to hide the hook and eye closure.


At least of this one I have a decent picture now, riding side-saddle at an 18th/19th century event. What's still missing in this picture is the little tricorn. I have a length of ribbon left that was too short for the hem, plus some lace, satin roses and I'm sure I can get my hands on some matching ostrich feathers. The basis of the hat is a child's straw hat that has been put into tricorn shape by the same method I use for the bergère hats, hot water/steam and letting cool/dry in the desired shape. The straw hat was then covered with matching satin (remember to add an inner layer of fabric or else the woven straw texture will show through the satin) and decorated. And as I had two shades of matching pink, two shades of matching decoration and a source for cheap straw hats, I made two little tricorns. Just because.

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