Sunday 18 April 2010

Musketeer outfit

...or how to clothe a baroque gentleman properly if you have to work quickly and on a budget. I really love planning other people's costumes, but how come I never seem to have enough time to actually finish them?! Again, pattern from "Patterns for Theatrical Costumes". Let's see how this one turns out.




Unfortunately my camera refused to depict the exact colour of the fabric. The brocade for the doublet is a rich golden colour, the linen for the trousers a warm, dark brown with a tinge of gold to it.

Well, the first thing to begin with are always the boots, right? No? Anyway... As there's no time to go for real boots, I decided to make fake ones, means boot-legs that are worn over over normal shoes (in this case 18th century low shoes that fit nicely). A double layer of fake suede (the slightly stiffened version) works quite well, the top is adorned with a row of lace that's stitched invisibly to the inside layer. The instep where bootleg and actual shoe meet is covered by this butterfly-shaped leather thingy that's so typical for this kind of boots, and a stirrup in a matching colour keeps the whole thing in place. The work of one evening, and it's done very neatly.

Next step are the trousers, loose breeches in this case that end shortly below the knee, just above where the boots start (so it's actually a good thing to have the boots finished when you make the breeches). The hem is usually decorated with one or two rows of matching ribbon loops, the sides can remain plain or, as in this case, be decorated with braid.

Following the gaze upwards, naturally the next thing to sew is a shirt with a large, lace-framed collar and lace cuffs. The basic pattern of a baroque shirt is a rectangle with sleeve-rectangles attached and gathered into cuffs, the neck opening with slit lined with the collar that can be closed either with a button or, better, with two strings that end in a tassle. If you got too much time, you can embroider the shirt. I didn't have that time... :P

A doublet goes over the shirt, as a man just in his shirtsleeves was considered practically naked. The eight parts of the pattern are each lined individually and then sewn together. The long sleeves are slit, so the shirtsleeves of fine, white linen are visible. The striped pattern of the fabric I used just begged to be used for a zig-zag-pattern, which gives the costume additional decoration. Nonetheless (it's baroque, after all - they used tonnes of decoration unless they were puritans!) the parts are edged with matching braid and close at the front by means of tarnished brass buttons.

And the hat. Well, to my disappointment I discovered that what I bought is synthetic felt (I wanted real one, but try to get real felt by the metre...), which refuses to be molded in shape with a steam iron, so I had to change my plan and sew the hat - which usually is only done if it's a leather hat, I think, but anyway... The crown consists of two layers fused with an iron-on interfacing and is sewn to the brim (which also consists of two layers with still more interfacing between - just add enough to make it nice and stiff) and rimmed with wire. I zig-zagged it to the edge, but be careful, needles break easily if they hit the wire :P



The wire and zig-zag-stitch are covered by a length of ribbon in a matching colour (in this case the same as the hatband). The whole procedure makes it easier to get the brim in proper shape. I also added a sweatband on the inside and decorated the hat with a hatband and plumes. Et voilá, I've found a new hobby (again) :D



Add gloves and insert a handsome guy, and you got a perfect musketeer! ;)

Red early-baroque dress





I'm incorrigible - yet another dress started while the previous ones aren't even finished! But time is pressing again, I need it for a play this time. Musketeer-setting, and that practically forces me to enrich my wardrobe by yet another dress. Baroque was still missing in my collection anyway :)



Main ingredient is rather thin, cherry-red cotton fabric, lined with slightly stronger red cotton. Red satin ribbon for the decoration, white cotton and white lace for the collar and the shirtcuffs. The white satin ribbon I used around the edge of the bodice is missing in this picture.

The pattern is from Holkeboer's "Patterns for Theatrical Costumes", the dress consists of a high-waisted bodice with large, lace-framed collar and a simple skirt.

The six parts of the bodice are lined individually and are then sewn together. The stomacher, stiffened by whatever you consider fit (if you use cardboard, make sure to add two or three pieces of steel boning at the back for additional stability), is attached to the bodice with hooks and eyes. Here's a detail of the front, already decorated with little wax pearls.



I stiffened the stomacher with two layers of stiff fusing material, one layer of double-sided fusing material and sandwiched invisibly in between three lengths of plastic boning, one centered, one on either side. The full sleeves end at the middle of the forearm, and of course also here we find the large lace collar and cuffs. White satin ribbon is sewn along the edge, and the front is decorated with little bowties, made from broad satin ribbon with a piece of narrow ribbon sewn round the center.



The skirt is self-explanatory, skirt with slit at the back, floor-length, maybe even a little longer (baroque opulence liked overlong dresses at the beginning of 17th century). It's worn without a farthingale, just with a few petticoats (or, in case of the pic, a very moderate hoopskirt). Here's a detail of the fastening: